PART TWO
The Layering Techniques

Layering is an age-old method used by the Chinese over 4000 years ago. A small wound is made on a branch of the parent plant, which is then packed with moss. The wounded area develops roots beneath the moss. Once the root ball is large enough, the branch is removed just below where the roots had developed, and now there are two plants of the same variety.

Air Layering A healthy, pencil-thick or larger cane to propagate from is a must. Remove the leaves from a six-inch area where the wound or cut is to be made. In the cleared area gently score the bark around the cane making two ring-like cuts, one inch apart. Between the two cuts use a sharp knife to carefully scrape away the bark (outer-most surface) and the cambium layer (light green layer just beneath the bark). Make sure all the cambium is removed or the wounded area will form new bark instead of roots. The core of the stem should be left intact. This white tissue (found in the centers of every cane) is the Xylem, which keeps the top portion of the plant alive during the rooting process. Lightly dust the wound with a rooting hormone and pack the area with moist, not dripping wet (squeeze out excess water before applying) sphagnum moss. Cover the moss ball with a sheet of plastic large enough to cover completely and leave a little extra at both the top and bottom to tie the whole thing closed. To secure the plastic sheet around the moss ball use twist-ties or twine. After two weeks to several months, the newly rooted plant can be removed from its parent just below the moss ball. The length of time for roots to develop depends greatly on the type of rose, season, weather, and vigor of the parent plant. After removing the new plant, take off the plastic sheet but leave the moss. The young rose should be planted in a pot and placed in bright shade. After two to four weeks the potted plant can be moved into direct sun light. Give the plant plenty of time to develop a sturdy root system before planting it directly into the ground.

Tip Layering This method can be used on plants with very pliable moderately long canes. Take healthy lower canes and check to see if they can be bent down to the ground. Take note as to where the cane touches the ground as it is at this point you’ll make the aforementioned one-inch apart rings. It is not necessary to remove the entire bark and cambium layer as you would with air layering because often the ends of the canes are a bit on the thin side. You’ll bury the wounded section under soil, leaving only the tip and its leaves exposed. It is the part of the cane buried underground that will develop roots. Once again it may take weeks, even months, before you can remove the newly rooted plant from its parent.

Remember to give the new rose plant plenty of time to develop roots and become adjusted to life on its own before placing it into the ground or in full sun. It is also essential to maintain adequate moisture levels in the soil during the first season. Happy propagating!

In the July/August issue I will go through the pros and cons of purchasing grafted roses as compared to those grown on their own roots. As always, feel free to call, write, or email me with your questions and suggestions.

–Cheri