IN THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) originated in the Andean highlands. Incas cultivated them for over 2000 years before the arrival of Spaniards in the 16th century. First recorded in Europe in 1587, they later became a staple crop in Ireland and much of northern Europe. Now widely distributed throughout the world, potatoes grow best in cooler temperatures (50-70°F), with deep, loose, well-drained, loam. Most varieties are adaptable, aggressive rooters, and will produce quite respectably in less-than-perfect conditions. Named varieties abound for a wide range of environments, and ancient Andean forms are currently being employed to increase the range.

Traditionally, beds are double dug and copious amounts of compost and manure are added. There are other techniques however, for overcoming the drainage problems of heavy clay. Try placing potatoes right on the soil surface and covering with straw, well-rotted leaves, or compost. Obtain a large, plastic garbage can (with holes), wire cage, or other big container and plant into the lower portion (makes harvesting a breeze). If you have the means, build a raised bed. As the vine grows, continue burying the stem in the chosen medium leaving about half to two thirds of the new stem exposed. This is called “hilling” and is crucial to developing large and abundant tubers (the part that you eat).

Two pounds of seed potatoes can yield up to fifty pounds of tasty tubers. After preparing the soil, plant whole tubers of egg size or less, or cut large ones into chunks with two or more eyes (allow cuts to callus but plant before they get too dry). Water just enough. More water allows more and faster growth – less water produces meatier, better tasting spuds with tougher, better storing skins. (There is even evidence that low water potatoes may have a higher protein content.) Plant a few inches deep and a foot apart; generally, the more space the bigger the taters. From emergence to the end of bloom, I recommend foliar feeding about every two weeks with fish emulsion, or kelp extract. Additional food after blooming begins (as tubers begin to form) is not recommended. Avoid diseases by changing the location of your potato patch at least every three years.

Fall and winter plantings can be harvested the following April for new potatoes, or in June for mature tubers. Watch the vines in June. As they start to look sickly and yellow, or wither, it’s time to dig up your crop. Whatever you do not eat immediately, store in the dark at 36-40 degrees F. (Light and warmth promote sprouting and/or greening.) Remember, they’re still alive and need some humidity and air circulation.
Most of all don’t let stated limitations scare you. Your half shady corner might be just the spot for red, new potatoes. Your pantry is probably perfect for storage. Here in the Bay area, the profusion of microclimates may allow you to accomplish the otherwise impossible. Don’t be shy, grow your own fries!

– Griff